Explicitly set the chunking with the nc_def_var_chunking function:
Usage
     int nc_def_var_chunking(int ncid, int varid, int storage, size_t *chunksizesp);
ncid
  NetCDF ID, from a previous call to nc_open or nc_create. 
varid
  Variable ID. 
storage
  If NC_CONTIGUOUS, then contiguous storage is used for this
  variable. Variables with chunking, compression, checksums, or one or
  more unlimited dimensions cannot use contiguous storage.
  
  If NC_CHUNKED, then chunked storage is used for this variable. Chunk
  sizes may be specified with the chunksizes parameter or default
  sizes will be used if that parameter is NULL.
  By default contiguous storage is used for fix-sized variables when
  compression, chunking, and checksums are not used.
*chunksizes
  A pointer to an array list of chunk sizes. The array must have one
  chunksize for each dimension of the variable.